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Post by TaTeR DiggER on Feb 10, 2010 18:43:37 GMT -7
I think a race day that ends at 3 AM in the morning is a good day of racing, I was just saying what so many people will be saying is all I think as many karts as we can get is the way to go ;D but I am only One guy
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Post by wilywin9 on Feb 10, 2010 21:21:13 GMT -7
LOL....if the races got over at 3:00 in the morning ....at the next race you wouldnt have anyone! We should be done and out of there no later the 7:00 in my opinion.
#9
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Post by spaldingracing on Feb 10, 2010 21:52:36 GMT -7
Hehe....in my pits... 3am is the normal time the day ends...lol. What was it.....4:30am last oakwood race?
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Post by dixracing3 on Feb 11, 2010 9:04:43 GMT -7
you said you were only one guy...lol.......more like a guy and a half............sooooooooo 4:30 is about right.....
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Post by TaTeR DiggER on Feb 11, 2010 18:15:50 GMT -7
LOL....if the races got over at 3:00 in the morning ....at the next race you wouldnt have anyone! We should be done and out of there no later the 7:00 in my opinion. #9 "if the races got over at 3:00 in the morning ....at the next race you wouldnt have anyone!" If we got done at 3:00 in the morning , we would have had 300 or more karts on the track and maybe you wouldn't be at the next race but I am sure there would be more then you think and yes it was 4:30 AM
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Post by TaTeR DiggER on Feb 11, 2010 18:18:14 GMT -7
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Post by spaldingracing on Feb 11, 2010 22:35:10 GMT -7
I can say it was a lot of fun...i cant wait for summer.....Ribs anyone?
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Post by bcoates54 on Feb 12, 2010 0:20:33 GMT -7
Adding all that stuff kinda blows the point If your gonna make 500 bucks it will be the same as the animal class wont it we already have classes that have good hp I think the idea would be the 89dollar motor than if some one claimed it big deal you take there 50 bucks and go by a new one. We dont need another 4 stroker class that is comparible the idea is to have a class that some one can spend 400or 500 bucks for an old kart and motor and come race. Pluse we have all raced at places like traxx and other indoor run there kart tracks and we have blast even though they the same motor with govers and no headers. Believe no hp can be just as fun as lots of HP
me and my buddies went down and bought those 400$ shucks go karts and ran them at the paved track behind the monroe air field( no not the quarter midget track there is another paved kart track the owner of first air paved) And let me tell you with in a two weeks we had ten or so of those kart all the racers that went into NW racing when I was working there I let them ride one the next day they were calling around looking for the nearesrt shucks with the TIE ROD IV and we bought all the slickes from the the lawn mower shop that were hard as rocks and we put thousands of laps on those things with all kinds of racers GAYLON STEWART, KYLE JOHNSON, SETH BERGAMAN, ROGER HABICH, COLTON HEATH, ROBBIE VAUGHN, BILLY COATES, JARED ALSETH, DOC HABICH, EVEN KEVIN HAMILN TOOK SOME LAPS AND LOTS MORE PEOPLE.
It was awsome we wore those karts out but those cheaps motor were JUNGSunGs the same as a honda 5.5 and the same thing harbor frieght sells for 89 dollars I think we should try it that way 30 fun kart clutches, pump gas itll would be a blast you would have to figure if you want your ower out of the corner or at top end gearing would be huge we could even say hard tires or slicks or get skinny fun kart tire make them a handful to drive or all front tires all the way around I dont come some body else throw something in does anybody else think it would be fun like this.
Maybe joes racing products could start building cheap spec karts to or only allow old straight up chassis
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Post by bcoates54 on Feb 12, 2010 0:23:02 GMT -7
Im gonna buy a couple when the sale hits and bring them out and will try a little exhibtion race or maybe sonner if I can find some of the motors
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Post by dixracing3 on Feb 12, 2010 9:14:02 GMT -7
i'll throw this in.........backeast the clone classes are growing ...but in the wrong direction.......they have the kart shops now offering a plethera of clone builds.............from box stock to mods. .........so it is slowly going the way of the other classes.....sad but true.
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Post by wilywin9 on Feb 12, 2010 12:33:20 GMT -7
My intent on getting one was more so for the kids....There cheap and there a step up from the baby kart deal! I was just gonna let my daughter run it for a bit and see how it goes, let her get used to the kart. If it doesnt work out then i am not out much! I think they are perfect for people looking to get there kids going! Just a thought. I will have mine out at the March race!
#9
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Post by sstackman on Feb 12, 2010 19:44:08 GMT -7
Ugh I have missed this thread till today Ugh collecting thoughts :-)
Joe
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Post by sstackman on Feb 13, 2010 8:09:30 GMT -7
I only say ugh as I have to read our rules constantly and every time I think I have it down some thing new comes up . Well these clone motors were gonna ccome up eventually I was just hoping it would later rather than sooner. LOL thanks Ron . What restrictorr you got for it ? Deffinetly dont want to turn people away so I guesse we gotta come up with some rules for them. OK so all clone karts must be on a straight rail chassis , fun kart slicks and run the track in reverse :-) OK just kidding THe clones should be an entry level starting point get ya hooked on the cheap kinda thing with the intent that you move to an animal or a Yamaha when ya want to go faster. I am sure thats exactly how it started elsewhere but the nature of racers and motorheads it got out of hand with this cam , that rod etc etc. Thats just the way we are cut. SOoo where do we go now that the first one is gonna show up in march. GUesse it just got put on the meeting agenda LOL THis is gonna be a long meeting I think
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Post by wilywin9 on Feb 13, 2010 9:36:06 GMT -7
hey ....if those are the rules.....straight rail, slick and run backwards....let me know i will go get about 10 more of them and start buying up some more karts. By the way i dont think they make enuff power to put restrictors in them! And for the record if you scroll back to the top....Jeff started it not me! ~ #9
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Post by dixracing3 on Feb 13, 2010 9:46:09 GMT -7
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Post by bcoates54 on Feb 13, 2010 15:57:23 GMT -7
I say keep stock like joe said will keep it cheap you could easily get into a kart under a grand enough searching probaly 6-700 this will hook more poeple like I said its the competetive part that hooks poeple not just the speed we could even seal the motors I know the a karter thats a machinst we could have snap off bolts made cheap to seal the motors. But lets test some things before we lock down any rules
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Post by darrinf63 on Feb 13, 2010 17:22:04 GMT -7
Did anyone look at the BNSS rule book? Burris National Sprint & Speedway Series – 2009 Season Rule Book Page 32 SECTION 12 - SECTION 12 - CLONE TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 12.1 Rules & Intent: The intent of this engine package is to provide a low cost out of the box power source to attract new or budget minded karter's to local and regional level karting. That being said, it has to be acknowledged that there are certain convenience and/or safety modifications that have to be allowed as well as some dimensional guide lines to verify the engines legality should there be a need to inspect internal components. The following are recommended areas of inspection should it become necessary. 12.2 Approved engines - OHV engines generally referred to as Clones with a maximum displacement of 200 cc's. (Current legal engines include the Lifan, Grey Hound, Harbor Freight Blue & Yellow, Jaing Dong, Yamakoyo, Blue Max) 12.3 Engine Components: Must be original OEM items in their stock state unless otherwise specified. Removal of unnecessary OEM items such as exhaust system, air cleaner, fuel tank, governor, low oil sensor, etc is permitted. Welding or epoxy repair permitted to the block, head and side cover provided they don't enhance performance. 12.4 Exhaust System: Non tech except header must be round and a constant diameter (no multi stage) and the end may be expanded to accommodate an RLV type B91 or other muffler/silencer. No loop type exhaust. Silencers are strongly recommended. If a silencer is not used the end of the pipe must be flared or have a protective washer welded on. 12.5 Carburetor: Huayi type carb only. Choke assembly must be in place and functional. Choke bore .810" dia max, venturi .615" max and throttle bore .751" max. Main metering jet is non-tech. (Since the amount of air flow is controlled as well as the fuel teching the jet size is unnecessary) Filter adapter and filter non tech. Any pulse type fuel pump permitted and can be pulsed from the crankcase, side cover or valve cover. 12.6 Fuel Tank: Non Tech. (It is recommended that for safety reasons remote/floor mounted tanks be used.) 12.7 Fuel: 93 Octane (max) Pump Gas. See rule 8.1 and 8.1.2 for details. 12.8 Clutch: Any engine mounted disk or shoe clutch allowed. (There are many used disc clutches available for a reasonable price) (Shoe/drum clutches only can be a local option) 12.9 Connecting Rods: OEM cast rods only. No modifications allowed. 12.10 Pistons: OEM Std bore (68mm or 2.677") only. Three ring design and all rings to be in tact and functional. (Oversize's to be permitted at a later date.) 12.11 Crankshaft: Standard OEM item with stock stroke length of 54mm or 2.126" (plus or minus .005"). No alterations permitted. 12.12 Flywheel and Ignition Coil: OEM flywheels only with stock unaltered plastic fins. Flywheel key is non tech but must be installed. (Due to the variations of the OEM keys they will be non tech to allow optimum timing with a minimum of cost.) Plastic fins must be intact and have their full depth. Minimum (bare) flywheel weight is 8.2 lbs. 12.13 Cylinder Head: OEM heads only with no modifications allowed. Valve seats to be a single 45° only with a top angle relief of 30°. No porting, grinding or matching allowed to the ports or combustion chamber. Spark plug to be 14mm X .75 reach only. Minimum combustion chamber volume when mounted on engine @ TDC is 27.5 cc's using prescribed procedure as noted in rule 8.5. This is to be done after the event and when the engine has cooled down to a reasonable temperature. Head gasket to be .010" minimum thickness and can be either steel or aluminum. 12.14 Valve Train: OEM push rods, push rod guide plates, retainers, springs, keepers, rocker arms and adjusters only. OEM valves with 45° seat a ngle only and no lightening or polishing. Stock 1:1 ratio OEM rocker arms only. OEM valve springs only with a maximum spring diameter of .798" (wire diameter .073" max) and a maximum tension of 10.8 lbs at .850" compressed height. 12.15 Camshaft: Maximum (actual running) lift to be .245" measured at valve retainer. This is to be done after the event and when the engine has cooled down to a reasonable temperature. Burris National Sprint & Speedway Series – 2009 Season Rule Book Page 33
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Post by darrinf63 on Feb 13, 2010 17:58:55 GMT -7
Here is another approach
1. Harbor Freight 6.5 motor is the only motor allowed in the class. Engine must be Harbor Freight #94187 or #96549 2. No modification of any kind allowed. Must run stock muffler and air filter. 3. Governor and oil lever sensor may be removed and are the only modifications allowed. 4. Recommend a muffler brace to be installed to help prevent muffler breakage. No modification to muffler allowed, muffler may be wrapped with header wrap. 5. Engine must be inspected and sealed by Wellington tech before allowed to run. Seals will be installed at the track by either Virgil Harvey or Jim Gibbs. 6. There will be a $20.00 seal fee on motors. 7. Motor must be new and un-started to be sealed. (new in box) 8. Motor will have side cover, head and carburetor and valve cover sealed to motor (valve lash will be checked before sealed, and the governor removed.) 9. No blue printing of any kind allowed. 10. No rebuilding of engines allowed. 11. No Honda parts allowed. (Valve springs, rocker arms, carburetors, ect..) 12. No after market parts of any kind allowed. 13. If you are caught modifying this engine other than what the rules allow you will be removed from the class. 14. Throttle linkage may be altered for use on a kart. 15. Karts and engines will be subject to tech. 16. Class age will be 15 and up. 17. Any drum or shoe clutch allowed. No disk clutches allowed. 18. Tach/temp gauges allowed. 19. EL Maxis tires allowed only. 20. Class weight will be 365 lbs as raced. 21. Any will be allowed to run economy with the exception that if you are entered in the economy class you will not be allowed to race any other classes that night. 22. Entry fee will be $15.00, no pay on club night an the banquet awards will be limited. 23. Wellington Board may 24. Fuel will be gas only. 25. This is a entry level/economy class and the driving will be regulated accordingly.
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Post by wilywin9 on Feb 13, 2010 18:30:12 GMT -7
LOL....what about the kids ( jr. 1 ) ? These are cheap low power motors. What are all the adults worried about. I bought one cause i thought it would be perfect for my daughter to start off in. Its not a baby kart motor yet not throwing her into an animal or restricted yammy? If you can run a restrcited animal and/or an f-200 in the jr.1 class you chould absolutely be able to run a stock clone! That was my intent. That way when she gets used to her kart and is ready to move up im not out a bunch on the motor deal! #9
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Post by darrinf63 on Feb 13, 2010 18:53:55 GMT -7
For Jr1 how about a 29/64 no go restrictor
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Post by sstackman on Feb 13, 2010 19:47:21 GMT -7
Forgive me but is that a 29/64th's as in inches ?
I was looking at the Burris rules on the clones today before the meeting. Need to print and look over what Spokain is doin . We never really got to the clones other than to say we need to adress how to fit them in and left it open for discussion for the next meeting. This will be the next thing we really need to sit around and hash out idea wise.
OK Ron you got me I just wanted to throw you under the bus , hehehe . So are these clones based on a 6.5 hp OHV honda deal ? IF so keep in mind the animal is also on a 6.5hp intek platform and look what we do to them.
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Post by wilywin9 on Feb 13, 2010 19:57:30 GMT -7
Welp you can set the rules to whatever....i am only putting a pipe, clutch, and air filter on it and removing the govener. They sell a little kit deal for like 75 buck! It also comes with 18lbs valve springs but i aint gonna mess with those!
#9
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Post by TaTeR DiggER on Feb 15, 2010 20:00:30 GMT -7
If you remove the gov then we need to look at the flywheel to, over 6000 rpm you can have them come apart just what I've heard happens to them back in the southeast . the motor is made to run 3500rpms just something to think about
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Post by spaldingracing on Feb 15, 2010 21:47:39 GMT -7
I remember reading when the clones first started running, flywheels were coming apart. Also rods were breaking. So clubs were going one of 2 directions... all stock with header and filter adaptor...or put in the rod and flywheel. Many clubs went with the flywheel and rod because once you had them you could just put them on the next clone when the first one wore out. Its a little bit of an upfront expense... but for saftey it makes sense.
But removing the gov. with stock flywheel is not a good idea in my eyes....i am not a fan of flying chunks of metal. I dont trust chinese pot metal that much...lol.
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Post by wilywin9 on Feb 15, 2010 21:52:59 GMT -7
I bought the extended warranty with mine! (19.99 for a year) If it comes apart.... so be it. They told me to bring back the parts and they'd give me another one!
#9
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